Founded in 2008, Hockerty is the e-commerce leader in custom suits and custom dress shirts, as we offer our customers complete freedom to design their own clothes by choosing from a wide range of styles and fabrics. 
As you are here, reading this blog post, you have already realized that looking great in a suit is not only about suiting up and showing up – it’s about the suit fit, too. Many things can go wrong here - the pants cannot be baggy, the suit jacket too long – there are a few rules to follow to get the proper suit fitting.
The fit is also the main difference between a made to measure suit and one bought off the rack. In case you do not have generic model measurements, the suit will never fit you perfectly in all areas. Try getting That One suit you will always wear made to your measurements, so you can look your best in any black tie events.
Let us break down the main differences between a made-to-measure and an off-the-rack suit.
How should a suit fit?
A made-to-measure men’s suit will always create a clean, sleek figure. There will not be too much fabric anywhere and the overall impression will not disclose any faults. Having just about the right amount of fabric also means the suit will not crease extensively. This rule is just a basic general perception – when you look at the suit, you will always have a good feeling that it fits well. And it will because it is made specifically for that one person.
The suit jacket is the most important suit part because it dominates the look. So many things can be wrong with a suit jacket, so it's a good idea to play it safe and have it made to your measures. Firstly, the width – make sure that you can button up the suit jacket easily. The made-to-measure jacket is always wide enough for the buttons to meet, but without any spare material on the back of it. No worries about the jacket being too tight when you sit – it is a must-be-followed rule to unbutton the jacket when sitting down.
When you have a jacket that fits your body well, it will lie perfectly flat on your shoulders. It is hard to find a good fit here among the off-the-rack suits if you do not have a standard, generic figure. The properly tailored suit jacket will not pull on your shoulder, but will not hang at the same time.
As for the jacket length, the correct length can be measured with the help of your hands. Place them next to your body in a relaxed manner and check if the jacket falls around the middle of your hand (where the fingers begin) – this is the correct suit jacket length for your height.
The sleeve length is another crucial factor to take into account when deciding whether to go made to measure or off the rack. The made-to-measure jacket will be tailored according to your individual arm length and to keep the rule of showing approximately 1 – 1, 5 cm of your shirt cuff. It is enough to see a hint of your cufflinks without revealing more; anything more than that or less than that stands for an incorrect sleeve length.
The trouser break
Even though modern fits often feature shorter pants versions, the majority of gentlemen still follow the classic trouser break rule. The “break” is a small wrinkle of the pants above the shoe, where the two meet. This break should feature one crease only, which demonstrates the proper pants length made to your personal measures. Of course, when sitting down, you will show more of your leg but suit socks will cover it. This is how perfect suit pants should fit. When buying off the rack, it may happen that your pants will be too short - avoid showing your bare leg at all costs.
We will not go into too much detail about how slim or tailored the suit should be, as it depends on the style you go for. However, remember this – even if not going for a slim-fit suit, your jacket and pants need to fit well. This means that there is no room for baggy clothing or extra material and creasing within any suit style or fit. Too much material simply means a bad fit.
Where should a Suit Jacket fall?
It is really easy to tell if a suit jacket fits. And one of the most important things is the jacket length. Stand up, and extend your arms naturally next to your body and your hips. The suit jacket should get to the middle of your palm. From that position, there will be people who might prefer 1 more or less inch.
- If the suit jacket doesn't cover your wrist, it is definitely too short.
- If the suit jacket covers completely your fingers, it is definitely too long.
Can off-the-rack suits be tailored?
Yes, tailoring an off-the-rack suit can be a solution. But there will be no miracles. If you are lucky enough to fit more or less in an off-the-rack suit size, you can ask your local tailor to retouch sleeves length or pants length. Have in mind that it is easier to shorten and extend. Usually sleeves and pants have a small piece to extend them, but it is limited.
When it comes to shoulders, abdomen and jacket length it is not that easy to retouch and tailor the problematic areas. Take that into consideration, tailors are tailors, not magicians. Be aware of that if despite all this you still want to buy off-the-rack.
Also, in terms of prices, it could be that if you add the cost of tailoring, it was not so good idea to discard a made-to-measure suit. Make your numbers and decide wisely if the economical part is important for you.
How to get a well-fitting suit
Well, the easiest way to get ya suit with the perfect fit guarantee is to order it directly 100% made to measure.
If you want to take a look at our selection of made-to-measure suits, check out our collection. At Hockerty, all suits are made to your measurements and they will wrap your body perfectly. And when we talk about made-to-measure, we really mean 100% made-to-measure from scratch. Adjustments in premade off-the-rack garments will never fit the same way as a suit that has been tailored considering your body measurements since the first cut. We also offer you endless options of design and customization, so your suit not only feels perfectly done but looks unique too. Give it a try and order one of our high-quality made-to-measure suits today. Hockerty customers forget about their sizes, they are no more needed to fit perfectly. There is only 1 size: yours.
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